Local is the Star
Local produce has always been important to Matthew Whitfield, Executive Chef, The Montagu Arms. However, now it has moved centre stage – the star of the show on The Terrace’s fine dining menu. Matthew explains that this focus on local is not new, but has evolved, in part out of lockdown.
“When we first reopened, post lockdown, we were doing lots of simpler dishes as we got going again. I wanted to take unnecessary things off the dishes and just focus on the base products from local suppliers, rather than put too much on a plate. We realised that this approach suited a tasting-style menu. Then I came up with the idea of doing a four-course menu rather than a three-course menu, focused on the more important elements.
“Around this time I went for a walk with my girlfriend around Beaulieu Abbey and got talking to the gardener there, and he now brings fresh vegetables in for us every week. He brought us in some amazing peppers one week and we just did slow-cooked pork belly from Blackwater Pork and covered it in a chargrilled pepper ketchup from Beaulieu Abbey and that was one of the first dishes we put on our four-course menu. It was all about this piece of pork and the pepper. This approach shows our personality more and feedback has been great. Another is Hampshire mallard which we serve with Tenderstem broccoli from the New Forest. I also use my Dad’s beer – for example, we make a tart for dessert and put the malt my Dad uses through the tart and serve it with a shot of the beer. We are focusing on the important things and where we get things from, and I really shout about that on the menu with a page that explains who our suppliers are; we’re proud to use them.
“We’ve always had a passion for local produce, however I have been proactive getting on board all those people who have the same sort of passion. The team believe in what we are doing and our guests seem to be enjoying it as well.
“This approach has gone across to our brasserie, Monty’s Inn, as I’ve taken control of that and do the menu there as well – classic, home-cooked comfort food, but with a little twist. For example, we do a shepherd’s pie, but with braised mutton topped with seaweed puffed potatoes and garden herb dressing. We have our own lamb reared on land belonging to the owner of The Montagu Arms. During lockdown they grew too old and became hogget and mutton. We took the meat anyway and found the flavour had really developed and we had this amazing mutton, which just adds an extra dimension. It is food people relate to, but it has a little bit of a twist.
"We also work around our suppliers. For example, Blackwater Pork can only give us four bellies a week, but because of how we use their product it works for us. We use it on one dish and we celebrate the dish completely; that’s what we do. We work in a sensible way. We don’t run out, we just adapt. So, for the mallard with Tenderstem broccoli, if my vegetable supplier turns round and says, ‘I’ve got this amazing cabbage this week and I think you should be using it’, I’ll change the dish.
"Local and seasonal is something we’ve always believed in. I’m from the New Forest so I get a lot of pleasure using the ingredients that I enjoyed when I was younger. I’m very lucky that the team believe in the same things that I do. Guests are interested as well. The chefs go out into the restaurant to talk to guests. It’s great because guests’ expectations are higher now. They are more aware of what produce we use, and they like to know that the chef cooking their dinner has a real passion and a belief in what he is using. I am extremely lucky, we have an amazing core team who have been with me for years and during this crisis they’ve been working extra hard. I’ve promoted my Sous Chef to Head Chef of The Terrace. We’ve worked together for years so nobody knows better what I want. I’ve promoted one of my team, whose progress has been incredible, to Sous Chef. Then I’ve got two lads who came with me as chefs de partis and they’ve taken over Monty’s Bar under my guidance. Again, they do a great job. It just shows how well they can do because Tripadvisor has gone mad for Monty’s. I think it’s gone up to second in the area, just underneath The Terrace, so that’s alright!"